On the last evening, the closing evening of Poerava, Tahiti Fashion Week welcomes Olivier Theyskens. This Belgian designer, who has his own clothing line, has worked for several large houses such as Rochas or Nina Ricci. He has also created costumes for private individuals, known and unknown, on order for the group Smashing Pumpkins, the Théâtre de la Monnaie in Brussels or the New York City Ballet. Olivier Theyskens is happy with this diversity, he does not like routine.
Friday evening you will present your creations, what can we expect? Is it a collection dedicated to Tahiti Fashion Week?
†Yes, it is partly composed of novelties. A total of 25 looks will be worn by the 16 models participating in the competition organized with the agency Brave Model Management. Nine slightly more experienced models will also participate in the show†
Can you tell us something about your style, how would you describe it?
†There is undoubtedly a Theyskenian, dark and poetic touch to my creations. Undoubtedly, I stand out for the importance I attach to the cut, the processing, the look. I want to do something honest that makes sense. I am an aesthetic quest and discovery for women. My style has evolved a lot, but I approach precise, sophisticated colors. When I work for haute couture houses, I adapt to the spirit of the house. I like exploring his mind, discovering his DNA. Kind of like an actor developing some facet of his personality according to the movie. I like to play, come up with unexpected things, surprise people†
Can you imagine any kind of clothes?
†In my collections you will indeed see all kinds of clothing, from dresses to lingerie. But tonight there are only dresses. I was inspired by the idea of a volcanic island, of heat rising in the middle of the ocean†
Where are you in your approach today?
†I’m moving towards more artisanal work, the idea of unique workshop pieces. It’s very Paris in absolute terms, but I’ve always wanted to do it, I’m going down this road now†
What motivated you to do this?
†The last times were exceptional, in the sense that they were an exception. I traveled less, I had more time in the studio, with sewing machines around me and scraps of fabric I had kept for a long time. Lots of fabric samples.
I make creations like patchwork that I structure, which I drape completely by hand, I really like that.†
What exactly do you like?
†The idea that in the fashion industry you can always develop something new for yourself. You can discover new facets, you have to rely on yourself. All this gives me energy and desires. This suits me especially because I don’t like routine†
Have you ever found yourself running out of inspiration?
†Once indeed. It was during a summer, I was working at Rochas. I had decided not to take a vacation to give myself time. But nothing came for days. I was desperate. I went to a friend in Spain and everything happened there, I drew all the models in two days. You have to trust yourself, there will come a time when it will come true.†
How do you feel as the show approaches, are you stressed?
†In fact I still am, but upstream, at the moment of creation, when I go forward and realize I reach the moment when it becomes impossible to go back. But when it’s all over, the models are presented, I’m no more†
What are your projects, what are you working on at the moment?
†I focus on my collections that I usually present in Paris. I take my time, I am moving towards the reuse of materials, a form of recycling that is gaining more and more significance. It is a certain path. I also work on orders that are never offered because they are made for private customers.†