While the outdoors continues to anchor itself in the everyday wardrobe and the 90s look hasn’t said the last word yet, other strong stylistic elements set the tone for the season. List of stylistic iterations of Parisian Fashion Week for Men, Fall-Winter 22-23.
Elegant tied collar
It is a trend that is needed. From Hermès to KidSuper through Casablanca, the models wore panels of fabric elegantly tied around their necks. Whether it’s silky scarves or long tie collars, the idea is the same: to bring the headwear to majesty by daring the dandy spirit even (especially) on a streetwear silhouette.
Preppy on key
It’s the return of preppy style. David Shah, forecaster and founder of View Publications, had already talked about it at a conference in November 2021, now it is making itself felt within the FW22-23 collections. Tie, blazer and long overcoat, all codes of the preppy style can be found next winter, associated with each other or as an isolated reference, combined with outdoor pieces. Nigo, Kenzo’s new Artistic Director, winked at it by taking inspiration from Ivy League imagery and the clothing traditions of young Americans.
The sporty tracksuit has long been an integral part of everyday life, but this season the designers emphasize one point in particular: the flashy side. Whether it’s a strong color or an all-over print, jogging and sports sweater/jacket should be prominent.
Turtleneck for warmth
The neck is warmly covered the following winter and this desire for warmth leads to a renewed connection with the elegance of the turtleneck sweater. The pleats to the chin were featured on many brands during Paris Fashion Week, including Hermès, Egonlab and Bianca Saunders, Loewe. Also note: the multiple standing and sliding collars at Y/Project and Lemaire.
Layered overall look
The multi-layered games take over the outfit to define the look: a slightly messy but never skimpy style. Preview at Y/Project in ultra-protective versionIsabel Marant 90’s style and Maison Mihara Yasuhiro on tailoring.
Cargo pants these new chinos
The cargo pants, which have been around for several seasons, went astray with their loose cut and their cuffed pockets on many Parisian catwalks and in different variations: denim, canvas, milleraies velvet, baggy or loose cut. We saw the utilitarian silhouette most notably in the fall-winter 2022 collections from Dior, Kenzo, Y/Project, Egonlab, agnès b. and Mihara Yasuhiro house.
Sequins or sequins, the lightness of a light suit was welcomed during a Paris Fashion Week that was still under hygienic measures. Floor-length coat embroidered with sequins at Egonlab, a blue sequined jacket at Pigalle, and a turquoise sequined shirt at Acne Studio. The interest here is to combine these sparkly pieces with everyday materials and clothing. On this subject, Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios, stated in a press release: “I was interested in the contrast of textures and materials, which gives a very creative and personal impression to the wearer (…) I like this contrast between the rustic and the festive”.